Falls short of the Frantzén Stockholm standard - Zén Singapore - Kaufe eine Reservierung
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😒 3/5 - Falls short of the Frantzén Stockholm standard
By 👻 @Erik J, 04/12/2023 3:00 am
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I write my review of Zén in Singapore as a three-time visitor to Frantzén, the original operation in Stockholm and the Mother Ship of the Frantzén empire. I am a well traveled foodie, and I can confidently say that my meals at Frantzén in Stockholm are among the best I have ever had. Expensive, yes, but the food and experience were worth it. Zén in Singapore fell short of the standards of Frantzén in Stockholm in several respects. On the surface, Zén is meant to emulate the Frantzén experience. Both restaurants are multi-story, with each level of the restaurant playing a role. You start with champagne to accompany many delectable snacks, before moving to the display of today’s ingredients and the explanation that accompanies them. You then move to the main dining level to have your savory courses, followed by desserts and digestifs at the final level. The food was absolutely delicious. No doubt about it. But I would say the quality of the food was the only attribute where Zén met the Frantzén standards. The experience is meant to be fun and informal, balancing out the seriousness of the food and drink. At Frantzén the staff was gregarious and lots of fun. They really enjoyed showing you the amazing space and talking to you about all the ingredients and all the experimental things going on. The experience of moving around the amazing building on different levels really makes the meal. The Singapore experience paled by comparison. The tour I received was very perfunctory and low energy. For example, as we walked by the dozens of jars of pickled vegetables in Stockholm my guide gave me a fun and detailed rundown on some of the coolest new ingredients and concepts being tried out. In Singapore, my guide walked right by and just said that Swedes really like to pickle food. No one at any point told me anything about the historic building the restaurant was located in. I found out about its significance after the fact. There was also no comparison between the personnel I interacted with at each location. Except for a Swedish staff member, who was very engaging, I found the Zen staffers to be basically going through the motions with far less engagement than their Stockholm colleagues. Most importantly, the value of the experience in Singapore was very poor. My check came to almost twice what I paid in Frantzén. And for that, I actually got less food and wine instead of more. At Frantzén when you get the champagne during the initial snack introduction they will refill your glass. At Zén, for US$50 you get one small glass of champagne and that’s it. Expecting the Stockholm experience, I made the mistake of drinking the champagne with the first three snacks, leaving none for the last two. In Stockholm, the snacks continue as you’re getting an explanation of the ingredients you’re about to try. While I did not count the number of courses, it seems I had at least two fewer than I had in Stockholm. One of the signature courses, the truffle toast, was smaller in size and the truffles were pre-sliced instead of prepared table-side. Much less fun than it could have been, and much less generous. I found the wines to be unremarkable and much less memorable. Finally, the dessert chef seemed much less imaginative. Instead of the amazing creations I was used to in Stockholm. I had a couple of basic dishes, including Japanese fruit. I understand how remarkable this fruit can be. I also understand the best way to pay tribute to it is to serve it by itself with no enhancements. But I could have done this myself at home. I understand that prices at high-end restaurants in Singapore are much higher than elsewhere as this is an extremely rich place and people can afford to pay almost anything. However, if you are going to charge prices like these then, at a minimum, should you not strive to provide the same experience as you do at your mother ship?
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