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🙂 4/5 - Great but Can Be Better
By 👻 @Stefan S, 09/15/2020 3:00 am
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Every lunch time if you come by Hong Lim Food Centre, you will see a never ending queue at this Michelin Fried Kway Teow, or in local terms, Char Kway Teow. Char Kway Teow is a Singaporean dish of Wok fried Flat and Yellow noodles in pork lard and sweet dark sauce with cockles and eggs, typically fish cake slices and Chinese sausages are added. The key to Char Kway Teow is the fried wok hei, savoury pork lard and sweet dark sauce coating every eggy noodles in a hot and fiery sweet yet savoury, egg mushy yet dry and great bite with the hotly fried noodles and crunchy bean sprouts. When you bite into a briny half cooked cockles, and crispy pork lard, that's mega flavours explosion right there. That's my take on good Char Kway Teow. So I came at 10am. Still a long 15 men queue. A young man starts taking orders down the line and collect payment. So you can't change your mind after. After 40 minutes or so I am finally 3rd men in queue and I can observe the maestro at work. 5 men handling the stall. One young man takes order, another young man prepares and pack endless takeaway, 2 ladies prepare and top up everything from eggs to sauces to packing papers. The last man manage the only wok. And I just learnt that the guy 2 men in front of me ordered 17 packets of takeaway. Must be an office group buy and he's the assigned queue man. In the earlier days some decades ago, the best char kway teow well known in Singapore are the ones in Serangoon Garden and the other at Old Airport Road. Now both ceased to exist due to age and retirement. I had eaten there many many times and i had known one thing. Never fry more than 2 or 3 servings at a time. Its a simple fact and i shall explain. Now imagine my surprise when I see that this young man's order of 17 packets of Char Kway Teow is done on 2 gos. The ones with chilli first and the ones that does not have chilli after. So 9 packets no chilli in one take, and 8 packets chilli the other, done. Alright next the next 3 orders, including mine, process started. Toss in old, then yellow and flat noodles, fry, jiggle in umpteen times of soy sauce, fry, spoon in some eggs cracked ahead by ladies into containers and fry again, toss in fish cake slices. Next jiggle in umpteen times of sweet dark sauce (hmmmm), spoon in more oil and lard pieces, fry and toss, then in the wok spread into portions, add cockles stir and serve by plates. After he serve out no chilli orders, next came the chilli ones which included mine. Thoughts came into my head. This mass method does take out much of the queue faster, but how do you control the spread of the cooking, sauces, ingredients in each portion? You may say you tossed well and from experience you know the exact numble of jiggles of light and dark sauces, what about basics such as the spread of wok hei and doness, top and bottom plates, amount of key ingredients such as lard though you controlled cockles well by adding it last. Except from the first to the last plates, amount of 10 servings in between and 10 minutes of extra cooking in that wok how to be consistent? So it's either you turn down the flames and wing it or add extra oil, and dark sauce should have been added last for the fragrance. Well the result served to me imaged my thoughts. Menu starts from $4/$5/$6, and I had $6 and added $2 of cockles. If you give me a blind tasting of several different char kway teow, I would score here 3 out of 5 for everything. Given the experience, its not bland or overly salty, a little oily and mushy since mine was among the last plates and added the Cockles are plentiful and not over cooked though very small, and no Chinese sausages. It was hot and some bits of noodles charred, but can't say great in wok hei and no fragrance of dark sauce at all. But as in eating any noodles, the good stuffs usually dropped to the bottom. So my last servings' had plenty of extra crispy pork for an extra star. I pity the first few then. Still my noodles stayed in that wok for too long. Four star experience but I won't be queuing again.
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