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🤮 1/5 - I keep wanting to like Handline as it exists in a small
By 👻 @Paula C., 02/06/2024 3:00 am
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I keep wanting to like Handline as it exists in a small town with only a few good restaurants and having another choice would be nice, but I am never going there again after my meal last night. I ordered the fisherman's stew as I wanted something light and hot. The server brought me a large bowl of what appeared to be watered down tomato juice studded with mainly calmari rings and some very small shellfish I could not identify. The one and only flavor I could get from the "stew" was that of salt. What a missed opportunity to make a balanced, flavorful dish. The fish itself is pretty tasteless so you want some interest from the liquid it was cooked in, but there was none. More importantly it wasn't a stew at all, because if it were it would have been thickened from long, slow cooking, although without the appropriate aromatics and vegetables the liquid would not have been improved anyway. I have always felt that there was no philosophy to the cooking approach here and no chef or even lead cook who wants to turn out good food. They are hyper-local with their wine list and even given the limitations of that, their wines are laughable examples of what the area can produce-I have tasted about 15 of them over my visits as they do fortunately allow tasting first, and I have never had even one I wanted to drink. I have not been able to understand or support what they are doing with their wine program-it is so bad it is embarassing-why don't they want to offer drinkable wines in the heart of Sonoma County? Now I have to remember not to return. I reminded myself after a previous visit that I did not want to come back but was staying at a hotel next door due to power outage at my home, and returned as it was so convenient and nothing else is open on Monday nights. I hope I don't repeat that little episode of amnesia so that I can save myself the experience of another bad meal.
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